My workshop is actually split between two locations. I have a proper forge I utilize as well as a fine detail work table I use when I am unable to get outside to the forge. I do most of my silver work at the table and most of my steel work in the forge.

I start with pure .9999 fine silver. If the piece requires the extra durability of sterling silver, I make my own alloy (92.5% silver, 7.5% copper is sterling ratio). I take the fine silver, melt it down in a crucible, and add the exact right amount of pure copper. Once the metal is melted and mixed, I pour it out into solid blocks called ingots.

Next, I take those ingots over to my rolling mill. I crank the metal through the mill by hand, stretching, flattening, and compressing it into the shapes that I need. Depending on the design, I mill the ingots into flat silver sheet or wire, ranging from delicate strands to thick, heavy cylinders.

Once I have my custom sheet and wire prepped, the fabrication begins. I cut, shape, and sculpt the silver by hand. Using a torch, I solder the individual components together step by step until the full shape of the piece is built. For the band rings, I solder a strip into a circle.

With the main structure finished, I move on to the details. I hand-engrave the patterns and textures. Because I carve it all by hand, every single piece has it's own character and is entirely unique.

The last step is the finish. First, I give the piece a rough polish to smooth out the metal. Then, I submerge the piece in a solution that rapidly oxidizes the silver, turning it black (this is called a patina). That darkens all those recessed areas.

Finally, I go back in for a detailed hand-polish. This strips the dark finish off the raised surfaces so they shine brightly, but leaves the black patina deep in the engraved lines so the texture really stands out.

The first step is heating the raw steel and hammering it out to the rough shape and thickness of the blade. Once it is hammered mostly to the desired shape, I use a wire brush and clean off the black oxide layer.

After cleaning the blade up a bit, I cut and grind it to refine the profile. Then, I grind the bevels (the angled edges), getting the blade close to its final shape and thickness before heat treating it.

To harden the blade, I heat the steel up to the 1500°F range and let it soak at that temperature for 5 to 10 minutes. Then, I plunge it directly into quenching oil. This rapid cooling locks the metal's molecular structure into a rigid state, which is what allows the knife to take a sharp edge and hold its shape.

Right after quenching, the steel is extremely hard and brittle. To fix this, I temper the blade by baking it in an oven at about 400°F for an hour or two. Leaving it at that temperature relaxes the molecular structure just enough to keep the blade from snapping or chipping under pressure.

With the heat treatment done, I slowly and carefully grind the blade to its true final shape. I put the cutting edge on it, remove any remaining imperfections from the forging process, and polish the steel.

 Once it is polished, for my chefs knives, I acid-etch the blade using a heated mixture of citric acid and instant coffee to force a dark, protective patina on the carbon steel. After the etch, I seal the blade with a beeswax and mineral oil mixture known as board butter.

The handle process varies depending on the knife. I primarily use wood or epoxy resin. Sometimes I keep it classic with wood and a metal inlay, or I will hand-fabricate custom copper root and branch sculptures, wrap them around the tang of the knife, and set the whole thing in clear resin. I shape, engrave, stain, and seal the handle material on its own.

 Finally, to assemble the complete knife, I drill holes through the handle material and the tang of the blade. I drive pins through those holes to securely lock the handle in place. Once everything is perfectly fitted and attached, I give the entire knife one last detailed polish before it leaves the shop.